Total Eclipse in Hangzhou

(written on 22/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

I've been in Hangzhou for three days now and I love it. It was a nightmare making sure I got in the hostel as it was so rife with eclipse hunters. My hostel is lovely and I've met such a variety of people including two English teachers living in China, an American man and an English woman. Ten of us go out for dinner and the two teachers have brilliant stories to tell about Chinese culture. We get some great advice. Apparently treat everything here like a practical joke is being played on you.

This would have helped had I have known this when I arrived. I couldn't get any money out or get my travellers cheques changed. I'd been running around trying to get it sorted before 5pm. I was looking pretty bad and stressed. As I was waiting to cross the road, a coach pulled up at the traffic lights on the opposite side waiting for the lights to change. Two Chinese men saw me and started pointing and laughing. When I didn't smile this only made them laugh more. As the coach pulled away their laughter increased and tey saluted me. Totally bemused at what was so funny, I saluted back before I noticed a police car there. I ran into the air-conditioned bank and was finally relived to get some cash.

With Chinese speakers in tow we order up a feast for dinner and the food is amazing. It's the best aubergine I've ever tasted. Cooked until it's delectably soft coated in a black bean peppered sauce. So hunting that dish down next time I'm in a Chinese at home.

Anyway, the eclipse this morning was amazing. I ended up watching it on my own as my train was only 4 ours after it so I didn't have time to get a taxi out with the others to try and catch the tidal bore wave at the estuary which is a phenomena that happens on the same day. I find out later that it was too cloudy where they were so I ended up with the best option. Due to the cloud before totality I got some great pics. One of the best bits was an elderly woman waving her eclipse glasses at me in excitement as I went to find a space to sit. There was a real sense of the crowd being together too. And I actually enjoyed being on my own as it was a pretty awe-inspiring experience. I was a bit emotional whilst it was happening then was on a complete high for the rest of the day.

Actually time for Sightseeing in Shanghai

(written on 19/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

Another 6am finish. It was supposed to be a buffet, a beer then bedtime. It doesn't happen in this city. We ended up out drinking beers for a while. As most people headed for home, my friend and I went to a club called Shelter. It was an underground cavern so whilst she did some weird house dancing to beep beep music I went and sat with a random group of ex-pats and got them to buy me beers. Having learnt a lot about Shanghai and drank a lot we got back to the hostel late. Again.

I was supposed to check out today to travel to Hangzhou for the total eclipse but I can't face it. I drag myself to reception to book in another night. There's now four of us hanging around together in the hostel: Fran, Tanja, Robert and I. So we go out to sight see things I have missed due to drinking alcohol and sleeping a lot in the last few days.

I have a very interesting chat with Robert who is here to do a course on Buddhism. We chat about the different branches of Buddhism and religion in general. We're all heading to the Renmin Park as he spotted these pieces of paper hanging on the trees yesterday and we found out what they were so we're off to investigate further.

Due to China's one child policy, which has been in existence for around 20 years, there are rather a lot of men around. Their parents come to the park to post up their son's and daughter's credentials whilst other parents wander around shopping for suitable partners for their offspring. I discreetly try to take a pic and it's quickly clear I'm not being inconspicuous enough as a woman comes over and tries to wallop me with her brolly. A sharp exit was required.

Shangers

(written on 18/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

I got to Shanghai yesterday, did what I normally do when I've had a long journey. Get a hotel, see a couple of sights and relax. Next day, I moved to a cheaper hostel, met up with a lovely German girl, who know a lot of ex-pats here and before you know it I'm dragged out in my flip flops and we end up out until 6am drinking and dancing. There was a lovely crowd out of ex-pats from Germany and Japan and some locals, oh and us couple of backpackers wearing the only things that might pass for going out gear.

Walking back at 6am, the taxi got lost, we go exasperated and we recognised some landmark and got out. As we walked past Renmin Square we saw kites gliding through the air above the trees. This peaceful surreality at 6am was broken by a strange sound. As friend and I look around approximately 100 policeman appear, march down the road and turn off. We look at each other stunned. China never fails to surprise.

Off out again tonight with the ex-pats for an all you can eat buffet. Perfect hangover food!

Juihua Shan to Shanghai

(written on 16/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

Up at 6am and I'm racing for the bus. The 13 year old girl who helps out on the hotel reception had told me that the bus left at 7am. I grab a taxi and say bus Shanghai! He says you need to pay more, it's further. Not quite understanding and sure I'm getting ripped off, he gets an agreement out of me on price that I'm not happy abut then flies down the winding mountain roads. I'm slightly concerned but enjoying it. The drive has certainly woken me up in the same way that you can't fail to be awake when you fear for your life.

We get to the bus station, I pay and he frantically points at a bus. I run over and I realise this is my bus. The taxi driver has risked the police and possibly his safety to get me this bus station at the bottom of the mountain. Now I feel bad I suspected him and therein lies my next lesson on Chinese people. If they understand what you want and they are in a position to help you, they will go completely out of their way to do so.

Feeling sheepish and trying to wave my thanks to my taxi driver, I board the bus to the usual stares. At the next stop the bus starts to fill up. Who should get on but my Buddhist monk who sits next to me. I'm not sure I'm going to enjoy this journey for the next seven hours.

By hour two he's virtually proposed. He keeps trying to hold my hand and compare our palms. I desperately look in my phrase book and there's nothing that might fit this situation. I make up a boyfriend by drawing pictures with hearts that look like some crush-struck 7 year old's scribble but he's not having it. I take to reading my book and pretending to be asleep to which he seems quite offended.

It's the longest seven hours I've had in a long while and it's a relief to hit Shanghai.

Juihua Shan

(written on 15/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

Yesterday I travelled into Hefei then onto Juihua Shan, one of the four famous Buddhist mountains. Again the only Westerner on the bus out of 60 people. As I wondered round Juihua on the mountain, I came to realise I was actually the only westerner in the village.


The two hour walk up the mountain steps was entertaining as people would either stare, say hello or chat me up as was the case with one Buddhist monk. Something made me think he wasn't a very dedicated one.


Back at my hotel I'm likely to be thought of as the mad loner as I've somehow ended up in a 'family hotel' where many of the rooms are let out over a longer term to larger groups. 'Ended up' is probably an elaboration as I was practically dragged off the bus and into a car that dumped me outside the hotel. At least I haggled. Although I later find out the locals price was quite a bit cheaper still!

Terracotta Warriors and more Trains

(written on 13/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

Night train tonight booked this time through the hassle-free but slightly more expensive hostel option. So it's check-out and off to left luggage at the station before getting the bus up to the Terracotta Warriors. I'm accompanied by French Man who later on today is checking out to go and stay with someone he's hooked up with via http://www.couchsurfing.com/.

It's 38 degrees and my backpack actually doesn't feel any lighter despite offloading stuff yesterday. And it's a very sweaty kind of heat. Phew! The Terracotta Warriors are amazing although I get a sneaky feeling they were man-made and then 'discovered' as a tourist attraction. It's amazing to think they could have been underground for that long when they are so huge. There are three aeroplane hanger size buildings that cover them.

So it's a lovely but hot day. I'm back at the station and am trying to source my backpack - there are three unmarked left luggage offices and I can't remember which one has my bag. Of course no-one speaks English and I don't speak Chinese so there are lots of humorous gestures going on. French man is highly amused by all of this being that he's a seasoned traveller. I get the feeling things like this just don't happen to him. Anyway, I wave goodbye and go to wait in the rugby scrum that is the waiting room. People sitting on bags, peasant type farmers staring openly at my 'yellow' hair and lots of chowing down on instant noodles. Every station has a mini-kitchen with boiled water available that is drinkable as the stuff that comes out of the tap isn't. This is also used for super cheap but delicious pot-type noodles that contain about 80% less additives than our version.

Each waiting room usually has two trains that people are waiting for and the waiting room number does not correlate with the platform number. Confusing, I know. The platform number comes up on the display board half an hour before the train is due to leave and this is when the scrum gets anxious and starts to really move. Elbows time. I get on train, all smiles again and I'm faced with three men and one woman in my compartment. I may have given the impression so far that Chinese people openly stare, which they do, but it is mostly open curiosity, like these four are definitely doing.

Once the train moves off out comes the guidebook and the language section is pilfered for questions. I exercise my five items of vocabulary and learn at least two more. I'm really enjoying this. We communicate well due to my (not so great) drawing skills but mostly the woman's English and an internet enabled phone. We amazingly cover topics such as jobs (two of the men are unemployed as they can't find work), family (they all have big families), difference in our countries (countless) and travelling (me planning lots, my companions not).

It's a fantastic three hour 101 on Chinese culture. Although I'm slightly embarrassed by the fact I'm off everywhere and they are not. I'm also ashamed by their sense of family, society and their patriotism. By comparison us Westerners are all a bunch of weirdo loners! I go to sleep on my bunk understanding a little more about Chinese culture.

Paomo and friends

(written on 12/07/09, posted on 17/09/09)

Who said Xi'an was a small town? It's a city and like everything in China, bigger than it first appears. I get a free pick up off the night train to the hostel which is a relief as I would have got lost.

Today seems to be the day for meeting people. By 10am, I've shared the pick up with a couple from Spain, talked to a French man then an American in the hostel reception. Both later turn out to be in the same dorm. This is the worst bit about travelling cheaply: having to share with some very random people including men (sorry!). Of course it can be the best bit too as I've already met some great people. After a quick clean up, I bump into French guy on the net and we go out to explore. Man, that guy could talk. I'm exhausted after a few hours but I've managed to get to the post office to post back 2kg worth of stuff I realise I'm not going to need. I'm looking forward to my rucksack being lighter when I travel on my next night train tomorrow.

American guy had lunch at subway so he comes up for some stick. And the three of us decide to go for beers and a local dish tonight, called Paomo. We get caught up in the bar chatting to two American sisters who spend the whole time moaning that China is dirty and smelly. They've never been to Asia before or actually outside of America. I doubt they've ever been to anywhere outside their home town. My American friend tries to talk to them but eventually we give up, they are trying to book the earliest flight out of China they can get.

We escape having had a few beers and eventually find some Paomo. It's delicious, why don't we do this in the UK? It's like a lamb stew with bread cubes that have soaked up all the tasty juices. Yum. We end up getting ripped off as a plate of random spicy rice turns up which they charge us an astronomical amount for. We argue with the lady who looks like she;'s going to punch me and eventually we settle the bill when a couple of large guys come out to see what the commotion is about. It's not a good end to the night. Our American friend feels slightly responsible as he was able to chat with the waiter as he lived in Japan for a few years. French man and I shrug it off but it leaves a bitter taste to our Paomo.