Ghosts and Agents of War

(written 11/08/09, posted 01/10/09)

I didn't get to sleep properly until 5.30am. Even the ear plugs couldn't keep out the noise of the backpackers bars, perhaps this hotel wasn't the best pick. Then at 7am I had a very weird sensation of someone pinning me down by the arms. This felt like it was at least 30 seconds. I managed to get back to sleep and awoke to hear T and L talking about their vivid dreams. We decide the room must be haunted.

After brekkie we went to the War Remnants museum, steeling ourselves for the worst. And it was awful. I had to keep my sunglasses on round the downstairs exhibition of photos as I just couldn't have anyone looking at me or I'd cry. T was crying beneath hers and L was holding it together. Anyone who glorifies war needs to come here and look at the pictures of torture and inhumanity.

We then moved to the exhibition of photographs of victims of Agent Orange. I'd never seen so many different types of deformities and diseases. It's so shocking to see many of these victims are still living without aid or any recompense for their suffering. The worst part was at the end where a new notice had been put up stating that the American Supreme Court only a few months before had ruled there was no real evidence of a link between the chemicals used in warfare by the Americans and any American or Vietnamese victims could not sue the chemical companies that had created Agent Orange. Such blatant disregard by the highest court in what is supposed to be the land of the free sickens me.

The three of us spent the rest of the day feeling pretty angry and all we can do is talk about what we've seen and quietly plan where we're heading next. T books a Mekong Delta trip and L and I will spend an extra day in the city before going to Cambodia. It feels like the end of an era. I've spent nearly 3 weeks with T and the three of us have shared some amazing times. I feel like I'm losing a best friend.